Friday, October 6, 2017

Growing your herb garden what you need to know.

Bee Friendly Plants

Encouraging bumblebees to your garden is an excellent way to encourage more effective pollination of your plants.

Culinary and Medicine HERBS


Thursday, September 25, 2014

Leafminer fly (Grafitti flies)


Introduction
There are four leaf miner species which are common pests: the tomato leaf miner (Liriomyza bryoniae), the American serpentine leaf miner (Liriomyza trifolii), the pea leaf miner (Liriomyza huidobrensis) and Liriomyza strigata. Under natural conditions, the larvae of these species are well parasitized by several natural enemies. Problems with leaf miner have increased as a result of the use of broad-spectrum pesticides: natural enemies are killed and the leaf miners develop resistance to these insecticides.
Biology
The leaf miner goes through six stages, namely egg, three larval stages, pupa and adult. The adult leaf miners are small, yellow and black coloured flies. The larvae form mines in the leaves of plants. Pupation takes place mostly in the soil.
Damage symptoms
  • Larvae cause mines. This can lead to cosmetic damage, leaves drying out or even early defoliation. The latter may affect the yield.
  • Female adults cause feeding marks where they feed. This gives cosmetic damage to the plants. Indirect damage occurs when fungi or bacteria enter the feeding areas.
Solution
Stiky Traps Many insects are attracted to the color yellow. These insects can be captured by hanging cards around your plants. Captured adults will not lay any more eggs on your plants. Yellow Stiky traps provide a means of controlling the flying stages of most pest insects.
  • Monitor plant leaves closely. At the first sign of tunneling, squeeze the leaf at the tunnel between two fingers to crush any larvae. Done soon enough, this killing larvae can allow plants to survive minor outbreaks. Pick off and destroy badly infested leaves in small gardens.
  • The more healthy the plant, the less chance that leafminers will hurt it. Maintain plant health with organic fertilizers and proper watering to allow plants to outgrow and tolerate pest damage. Keep your soil alive by using compost and other soil amendments.
  • Use floating row covers to prevent fly stage from laying eggs on leaves.
  • The parasitic wasp Diglyphus isaea is a commercially available beneficial insect that will kill leafminer larva in the mine. The wasp is especially beneficial to indoor growers of ornamentals and vegetables.
  • Use yellow sticky traps to catch egg laying adults. Cover soil under infested plants with plastic mulches to prevent larvae from reaching the ground and pupating.
  • Organic neem oil will break the pests’ life-cycle by preventing larva from reaching maturity. Neem oil may also have repellent qualities and interfere with egg laying activities.
  • Botanical insecticides can be used to knock down adult insects but have little effect on the protected larval stage feeding inside the leaf.
Do not compost soil or plant material that may be infested.Mulch beds to help control population mulching also  helps retain soil moisture and helps new leaves grow to replace damaged leaves.

for more info check this site http://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/leafminer-control/

Saturday, July 6, 2013

Soil and types. Benefits of Compost



Organic soil has its own ecosystem. It is composed of organic material, minerals and a variety of organisms that help to compost and keep the soil in balance. Organic soils are formed by the decay of plant matter. The higher the quality of the soil, the better it is for growing plants. The richer the organic soil, the darker the color will be. Organic soil contains 20 percent or higher organic matter. There are two basic types of organic soil.

Peat

Peat soil contains more than 65 percent organic matter. Peat is a rich organic soil that is created from accumulations of plant materials in bogs and other poorly drained areas. The decayed plant material determines the type of peat. Hypnaceous moss consists of decomposed hyrum, polytrichum and other mosses in the hypnaceous family. It decomposes rapidly and is the most common type of peat found in the United States, .Reed and sledge peat comes from decomposed rushes, coarse grasses, sedges, reeds and other grassy type plants. Humus or muck consists of finely divided plant materials decomposed with silt and clay particles.Sphagnum moss is the best-suited peat for growing. This type of peat is found in Germany, Canada and Ireland.


Good for rased bed soil mix 1/3 sphagnum moss, 1/3 compost, 1/3 vermiculite mix, plus add 10% of the mix lava rock , sand diatomaceous earth, worm castings organic fertilizers

Good for potting 60% Compost (compost, humate, coconut fiber, coir, earthworm castings, coffee grounds, etc.)30% Rock (lava sand, natural diatomaceous earth (DE), zeolite, granite, etc.)10% Sugar (corn meal, dry molasses, wheat meal, etc.)

Friday, July 6, 2012

Lawn or garden care pesticides are - very dangerous poisons that kill insects, weeds and organisms. Many are known to cause cancer, birth defects and infertility and can also damage the brain and nervous system, lungs, kidney, liver, endocrine and immune systems. Even if you don't use it pesticides from your neighbor's lawn or garden can end up in your home contaminating furniture, carpets toys etc.They last much longer indoors since there's no light, sun, wind or rain to break them down or wash them away. Pesticides easily absorbed into body through the skin and by swallowing. Pesticides can cause short term (acute) effects rashes, burning of the eyes and throat, breathing problems and flu-likes symptoms headache, nausea, fatigue , muscle aches , they can aggravate or cause asthma, allergies or cause long term (chronic ) illnesses include infertility, birth defects, various cancers of breast prostate myeloma, kidney/bladder eye cancer and so on. Children get effected more by pesticides then adults because they skin surface for they size and they take more breaths per minute and they liver and immune system is not fully develop.

Safer alternatives to Toxic pesticides

Common Insecticides: Diazinon, Dursban, Kelthane, Lindane, Malathion, Orthene, Sevin
Safer alternatives: insecticidal soaps, diatomaceous earth, neem products

Common herbicides: Atrazine, 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPA< Roundup, Trichlopyr Trifluralin
Safer alternatives: Corn gluten, hand weeding, hot water vinegar, weed wackers, proper watering

Common fungicides: Benomyl, Captan, Daconil, Maneb, Mancozeb
Safe alternative Sulfur, baking soda, copper products cultural control


Thursday, July 5, 2012

Seed saving why it is important?
Without seeds there's no hope of survival. Seeds is reproductive material- a new life and genetic information stronger plants produce stronger new plants. If people focus on saving seeds and ecology the life on this planet would be happier and healthier. Plants are everything its gives life -produce life- and continues life....With a dangers of GMO (genetically modified organisms)we are loosing the most important thing which is seed heritage when Gmo plants cross pollinates with heirloom it unfortunately they changes them .

Here's tips how to save tomato seeds

Tomatoes

Lycopersicon lycopersicum
Almost all modern tomatoes can be safely grown without isolation and will not cross—'currant' tomatoes (such as Cherry Tomatoes), and 'potato-leafed' tomatoes (such as Brandywine) are possible exceptions and may cross other currant or potato-leaf varieties. Grow as many standard tomatoes as desired, but grow only one currant tomato or one potato-leaf tomato at a time to ensure purity (or cage them, or separate varieties by 500 feet). Currant and potato-leaf tomatoes will not usually cross with common tomato varieties.
It's best to not plant all a valuable variety's seeds in one season until you are sure it doesn't cross with any other varieties you grow.
Allow tomatoes to ripen thoroughly on their vines to at least the eating stage before harvesting them to collect their seeds. Upon harvesting, tomato seeds are best fermented in order to remove a germination-inhibiting gel which covers the seeds, and to kill diseases. In nature, fermentation of fallen ripe fruits removes this gel, and this process is imitated when preparing tomato seeds.
If fermenting tomato seeds seems too much trouble, they will still germinate if the slippery gel surrounding the seeds is carefully rubbed off while you're cleaning them. Seeds treated this way will germinate, but they will not have had the protection of the fermentation process killing disease organisms. If you noticed any problems with your plants (leaves spotting or dying, inexplicable wilting, etc.), the extra trouble of fermentation will be well worth the effort.
Dry your tomato seeds on a piece of glass or a shiny plate—the wet seeds will stick to paper and be difficult to remove without damaging them.
Tomato seeds will store safely for 4 or more years after being properly dried and stored.

How to Ferment Seeds

To prepare seeds for fermenting, simply squeeze or scoop the seeds—together with the pulp that surrounds them—into a jar with a little water (about half as much water as seeds and pulp). There is no need to include more pulp than naturally comes with the seeds. Store this seed/pulp mixture in a warm place (75 to 85º F) for 1½ to 5 days (depending on the seed type and whether conditions are warmer or cooler).
Fermentation will be evidenced by bubbling and/or by the formation of a white mold on the surface of the mixture. As soon as the bubbling or mold have been evident for a day or so, pour the mix into a bowl and clean with running water.
Watch closely, as seeds left fermenting too long (especially above 80º F or so) may germinate, ruining their chances for storage. Once the seeds start to 'imbibe' or swell due to taking on water, they will have begun their internal process of germination... by the time their tiny roots have begun to emerge, it is far too late to try and dry them for storage. Sprouted seeds can be planted immediately and grown out (depending on season), but they will die if they are dried out for storage once they have begun to germinate.
It's not required to ferment squash or eggplant seeds, though it increases their germination rates and kills some seed-borne diseases. In general, when temperatures are kept between 75 and 80º F or so, fermenting is safe and beneficial and will be safely completed before seeds begin the process of germination.

For  more info useful sites how to save your garden seeds  see http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html or http://howtosaveseeds.com/seedsavingdetails.php#tomatoes

Wednesday, July 4, 2012


Companion planting means putting plants together in the garden that like each other, or help each other out. Companion planting can have a real impact on the health and yield of your plants.

Organic gardeners strive to achieve a balance in their gardens so that they don't require chemicals for pest or disease control.

Companion planting can play a significant role
in assisting with pest control.
Some combinations work because of scents they use to repel insects,
others work because they attract good bugs.

Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables 












Vegetable
Really likes to be with…
Really dislikes to be with…

Asparagus
Basil, Tomato, Nasturtium, Parsley
Onion, Garlic, Potato

Beans
Carrot, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Marigold
Chives, Leek, Garlic

Broad Beans
Brassicas, Carrot, Celery, Corn, Lettuce, Potato
Fennel

Beets
Brassicas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage
Bean (pole)

Broccoli
Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Rosemary
Oregano, Strawberry

Brussel Sprouts
Potato, Thyme
Strawberry

Cabbage
Beetroot, Potato, Oregano, Sage
Strawberry, Tomato

Carrot
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Pea, Radish, Tomato
Chives, Dill, Parsnip, Radish

Cauliflower
Beans, Celery, Oregano
Nasturtium, Peas, Potato, Strawberry, Tomato

Celery
Cabbage, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Parsnip, Potato

Corn
Bean, Cucumber, Melon, Pea, Pumpkin, Potato, Radish
Tomato

Cucumber
Bean, Celery, Lettuce, Pea, Radish
Cauliflower, Potato, Basil

Eggplant
Bean, Capsicum, Potato, Spinach

Leek
Carrot, Celery, Strawberry

Lettuce
Carrots, Radishes, Strawberry
Beans, Beetroot, Parsley

Melon
Corn, Radish
Potato

Onion
Bean Sprout, Broccoli, Cabbage, Lettuce, Strawberry, Tomato
Bean, Pea

Pea
Beans, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish
Onion Family

Potato
Bean, Corn, Cabbage, Pea, Eggplant
Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash, Sunflower

Pumpkin
Corn
Potato

Spinach
Celery, Cauliflower, Eggplant

Tomato
Asparagus, Celery, Carrot, Parsley, Marigold
Corn, Fennel, Potato

Zucchini
Nasturtium

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Garden zones. Basic planting vegetable schedule

When to Plant Vegetable Seeds. Zone 6a Philadelphia, PA

Crop Days to Maturity Spring Planting Dates Fall Planting Dates Seed/Plants
100 ft.
Distance Between Rows Distance Between Plants Depth to Plant
Asparagus 2nd season Apr 5 - 25
50 roots 3 to 5 ft. 1½ to 2 ft. 6 in.
Bean, bush 50-60 Apr 25 - May 30 July 25-Aug 5 ½ lb. 3 ft. 2 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, pole 65-75 May 10 - 20   ½ lb. 3 ft. 6 to 12 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, lima 65-75 May 10 -25   1 lb. 2 to 2½ ft. 3 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Beet 55-65 Apr 1 - 15 Aug 1 - Sept 25 1 oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 2 in. 1 in.
Broccoli 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 5 Sept. 25 - 30 100 plants 2½ ft. 14 to 18 in. -
Cabbage 65-80 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 -30 100 plants 2½ ft. 12 in. -
Cantaloupe 80-90 May 10 - 20 1 oz. 4 to 6 ft. 3½ to 4 ft. 1½ in
Carrot 70-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10 Sept 20 -30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 2 to 3 in. ½ in.
Cauliflower 55-60 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 - 30 100 plants 3 ft. 12 to 18 in. -
Collard 55-70 Mar 20 - Apr 10
½ oz. 2½ ft. 8 to 16 in. ½ in.
Corn 80-100 May 1 - July 20   ¼ lb. 3 to 3½ ft. 12 to 18 in. 2 in.
Cucumber 60-65 May 10 - 30   1 oz. 3½ to 5 ft. 3 to 4 ft. 1½ in.
Eggplant 75-90 May 15 - 25   50 plants 3 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. -
Kale 50-70 Mar 25 - Apr 5   ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Kohlrabi 50-70 Apr 1 - 15 Sept 20 - 25 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Lettuce 60-85 Apr 1 - May 15 Sept 1 - 15 ½ oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 10 to 12 in. ½ in.
Mustard 40-50 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 1 - 30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Okra 55-60 May 10 - 25   1 oz. 3 to 3½ ft. 6 in. 1 in.
Onion (mature) 100-120 Mar 25 - Apr 15 Sept. 1-Dec. 31 300 plants or ½ gal. sets 1 to 2 ft. 3 to 4 in. ¾ in.
Peas, garden 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10   1 lb. 2½ ft. 1 in. 1½-2 in.
Peas, southern 60-70 May 1 - 15 - ½ lb. 3 ft. 4 to 6 in. 1½-2 in.
Pepper 65-80 May 15 - 30 - 50 plants 2½ ft. 1½ to 2 ft. -
Potato, Irish 70-90 Apr 1 - 15   1 peck 2½ to 3 ft. 10 to 14 in. 5 in.
Potato, sweet 90-150 May 15-June 5 - 100 plants 3½ ft. 12 in. -
Radish 25-30 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 1- 20 1 oz. 1½ ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Spinach 40-45 Apr 1 - 20 Aug 10 - Sept 20 1 oz. 1½ to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ¾ in.
Squash, bush 50-55 May 15 - 30   1 oz. 3 to 4 ft. 2 ft. 1½-2 in.
squash, winter 85-90 May 15 - 30 - ½ oz. 5 ft. 3 ft. 1½-2 in.
Tomato 70-85 May 15 - 30   50 plants 3 to 4 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. -
Turnip 45-65 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 5 - Sept 20  ½ oz. 1 to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ½ in.
Watermelon 80-90 May 10 - 20   1 oz. 10 ft. 8 to 10 ft. 1½ in.

For other states use USDA zone guide http://www.garden.org/zipzone/