Friday, July 6, 2012

Lawn or garden care pesticides are - very dangerous poisons that kill insects, weeds and organisms. Many are known to cause cancer, birth defects and infertility and can also damage the brain and nervous system, lungs, kidney, liver, endocrine and immune systems. Even if you don't use it pesticides from your neighbor's lawn or garden can end up in your home contaminating furniture, carpets toys etc.They last much longer indoors since there's no light, sun, wind or rain to break them down or wash them away. Pesticides easily absorbed into body through the skin and by swallowing. Pesticides can cause short term (acute) effects rashes, burning of the eyes and throat, breathing problems and flu-likes symptoms headache, nausea, fatigue , muscle aches , they can aggravate or cause asthma, allergies or cause long term (chronic ) illnesses include infertility, birth defects, various cancers of breast prostate myeloma, kidney/bladder eye cancer and so on. Children get effected more by pesticides then adults because they skin surface for they size and they take more breaths per minute and they liver and immune system is not fully develop.

Safer alternatives to Toxic pesticides

Common Insecticides: Diazinon, Dursban, Kelthane, Lindane, Malathion, Orthene, Sevin
Safer alternatives: insecticidal soaps, diatomaceous earth, neem products

Common herbicides: Atrazine, 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPA< Roundup, Trichlopyr Trifluralin
Safer alternatives: Corn gluten, hand weeding, hot water vinegar, weed wackers, proper watering

Common fungicides: Benomyl, Captan, Daconil, Maneb, Mancozeb
Safe alternative Sulfur, baking soda, copper products cultural control


Thursday, July 5, 2012

Seed saving why it is important?
Without seeds there's no hope of survival. Seeds is reproductive material- a new life and genetic information stronger plants produce stronger new plants. If people focus on saving seeds and ecology the life on this planet would be happier and healthier. Plants are everything its gives life -produce life- and continues life....With a dangers of GMO (genetically modified organisms)we are loosing the most important thing which is seed heritage when Gmo plants cross pollinates with heirloom it unfortunately they changes them .

Here's tips how to save tomato seeds

Tomatoes

Lycopersicon lycopersicum
Almost all modern tomatoes can be safely grown without isolation and will not cross—'currant' tomatoes (such as Cherry Tomatoes), and 'potato-leafed' tomatoes (such as Brandywine) are possible exceptions and may cross other currant or potato-leaf varieties. Grow as many standard tomatoes as desired, but grow only one currant tomato or one potato-leaf tomato at a time to ensure purity (or cage them, or separate varieties by 500 feet). Currant and potato-leaf tomatoes will not usually cross with common tomato varieties.
It's best to not plant all a valuable variety's seeds in one season until you are sure it doesn't cross with any other varieties you grow.
Allow tomatoes to ripen thoroughly on their vines to at least the eating stage before harvesting them to collect their seeds. Upon harvesting, tomato seeds are best fermented in order to remove a germination-inhibiting gel which covers the seeds, and to kill diseases. In nature, fermentation of fallen ripe fruits removes this gel, and this process is imitated when preparing tomato seeds.
If fermenting tomato seeds seems too much trouble, they will still germinate if the slippery gel surrounding the seeds is carefully rubbed off while you're cleaning them. Seeds treated this way will germinate, but they will not have had the protection of the fermentation process killing disease organisms. If you noticed any problems with your plants (leaves spotting or dying, inexplicable wilting, etc.), the extra trouble of fermentation will be well worth the effort.
Dry your tomato seeds on a piece of glass or a shiny plate—the wet seeds will stick to paper and be difficult to remove without damaging them.
Tomato seeds will store safely for 4 or more years after being properly dried and stored.

How to Ferment Seeds

To prepare seeds for fermenting, simply squeeze or scoop the seeds—together with the pulp that surrounds them—into a jar with a little water (about half as much water as seeds and pulp). There is no need to include more pulp than naturally comes with the seeds. Store this seed/pulp mixture in a warm place (75 to 85º F) for 1½ to 5 days (depending on the seed type and whether conditions are warmer or cooler).
Fermentation will be evidenced by bubbling and/or by the formation of a white mold on the surface of the mixture. As soon as the bubbling or mold have been evident for a day or so, pour the mix into a bowl and clean with running water.
Watch closely, as seeds left fermenting too long (especially above 80º F or so) may germinate, ruining their chances for storage. Once the seeds start to 'imbibe' or swell due to taking on water, they will have begun their internal process of germination... by the time their tiny roots have begun to emerge, it is far too late to try and dry them for storage. Sprouted seeds can be planted immediately and grown out (depending on season), but they will die if they are dried out for storage once they have begun to germinate.
It's not required to ferment squash or eggplant seeds, though it increases their germination rates and kills some seed-borne diseases. In general, when temperatures are kept between 75 and 80º F or so, fermenting is safe and beneficial and will be safely completed before seeds begin the process of germination.

For  more info useful sites how to save your garden seeds  see http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html or http://howtosaveseeds.com/seedsavingdetails.php#tomatoes

Wednesday, July 4, 2012


Companion planting means putting plants together in the garden that like each other, or help each other out. Companion planting can have a real impact on the health and yield of your plants.

Organic gardeners strive to achieve a balance in their gardens so that they don't require chemicals for pest or disease control.

Companion planting can play a significant role
in assisting with pest control.
Some combinations work because of scents they use to repel insects,
others work because they attract good bugs.

Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables 












Vegetable
Really likes to be with…
Really dislikes to be with…

Asparagus
Basil, Tomato, Nasturtium, Parsley
Onion, Garlic, Potato

Beans
Carrot, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Marigold
Chives, Leek, Garlic

Broad Beans
Brassicas, Carrot, Celery, Corn, Lettuce, Potato
Fennel

Beets
Brassicas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage
Bean (pole)

Broccoli
Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Rosemary
Oregano, Strawberry

Brussel Sprouts
Potato, Thyme
Strawberry

Cabbage
Beetroot, Potato, Oregano, Sage
Strawberry, Tomato

Carrot
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Pea, Radish, Tomato
Chives, Dill, Parsnip, Radish

Cauliflower
Beans, Celery, Oregano
Nasturtium, Peas, Potato, Strawberry, Tomato

Celery
Cabbage, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Parsnip, Potato

Corn
Bean, Cucumber, Melon, Pea, Pumpkin, Potato, Radish
Tomato

Cucumber
Bean, Celery, Lettuce, Pea, Radish
Cauliflower, Potato, Basil

Eggplant
Bean, Capsicum, Potato, Spinach

Leek
Carrot, Celery, Strawberry

Lettuce
Carrots, Radishes, Strawberry
Beans, Beetroot, Parsley

Melon
Corn, Radish
Potato

Onion
Bean Sprout, Broccoli, Cabbage, Lettuce, Strawberry, Tomato
Bean, Pea

Pea
Beans, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish
Onion Family

Potato
Bean, Corn, Cabbage, Pea, Eggplant
Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash, Sunflower

Pumpkin
Corn
Potato

Spinach
Celery, Cauliflower, Eggplant

Tomato
Asparagus, Celery, Carrot, Parsley, Marigold
Corn, Fennel, Potato

Zucchini
Nasturtium

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Garden zones. Basic planting vegetable schedule

When to Plant Vegetable Seeds. Zone 6a Philadelphia, PA

Crop Days to Maturity Spring Planting Dates Fall Planting Dates Seed/Plants
100 ft.
Distance Between Rows Distance Between Plants Depth to Plant
Asparagus 2nd season Apr 5 - 25
50 roots 3 to 5 ft. 1½ to 2 ft. 6 in.
Bean, bush 50-60 Apr 25 - May 30 July 25-Aug 5 ½ lb. 3 ft. 2 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, pole 65-75 May 10 - 20   ½ lb. 3 ft. 6 to 12 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, lima 65-75 May 10 -25   1 lb. 2 to 2½ ft. 3 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Beet 55-65 Apr 1 - 15 Aug 1 - Sept 25 1 oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 2 in. 1 in.
Broccoli 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 5 Sept. 25 - 30 100 plants 2½ ft. 14 to 18 in. -
Cabbage 65-80 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 -30 100 plants 2½ ft. 12 in. -
Cantaloupe 80-90 May 10 - 20 1 oz. 4 to 6 ft. 3½ to 4 ft. 1½ in
Carrot 70-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10 Sept 20 -30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 2 to 3 in. ½ in.
Cauliflower 55-60 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 - 30 100 plants 3 ft. 12 to 18 in. -
Collard 55-70 Mar 20 - Apr 10
½ oz. 2½ ft. 8 to 16 in. ½ in.
Corn 80-100 May 1 - July 20   ¼ lb. 3 to 3½ ft. 12 to 18 in. 2 in.
Cucumber 60-65 May 10 - 30   1 oz. 3½ to 5 ft. 3 to 4 ft. 1½ in.
Eggplant 75-90 May 15 - 25   50 plants 3 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. -
Kale 50-70 Mar 25 - Apr 5   ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Kohlrabi 50-70 Apr 1 - 15 Sept 20 - 25 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Lettuce 60-85 Apr 1 - May 15 Sept 1 - 15 ½ oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 10 to 12 in. ½ in.
Mustard 40-50 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 1 - 30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Okra 55-60 May 10 - 25   1 oz. 3 to 3½ ft. 6 in. 1 in.
Onion (mature) 100-120 Mar 25 - Apr 15 Sept. 1-Dec. 31 300 plants or ½ gal. sets 1 to 2 ft. 3 to 4 in. ¾ in.
Peas, garden 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10   1 lb. 2½ ft. 1 in. 1½-2 in.
Peas, southern 60-70 May 1 - 15 - ½ lb. 3 ft. 4 to 6 in. 1½-2 in.
Pepper 65-80 May 15 - 30 - 50 plants 2½ ft. 1½ to 2 ft. -
Potato, Irish 70-90 Apr 1 - 15   1 peck 2½ to 3 ft. 10 to 14 in. 5 in.
Potato, sweet 90-150 May 15-June 5 - 100 plants 3½ ft. 12 in. -
Radish 25-30 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 1- 20 1 oz. 1½ ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Spinach 40-45 Apr 1 - 20 Aug 10 - Sept 20 1 oz. 1½ to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ¾ in.
Squash, bush 50-55 May 15 - 30   1 oz. 3 to 4 ft. 2 ft. 1½-2 in.
squash, winter 85-90 May 15 - 30 - ½ oz. 5 ft. 3 ft. 1½-2 in.
Tomato 70-85 May 15 - 30   50 plants 3 to 4 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. -
Turnip 45-65 Mar 25 - May 1 Aug 5 - Sept 20  ½ oz. 1 to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ½ in.
Watermelon 80-90 May 10 - 20   1 oz. 10 ft. 8 to 10 ft. 1½ in.

For other states use USDA zone guide http://www.garden.org/zipzone/

Going green

Going green & Eating greens will save your life!

It's a fact! What is a big deal?- you ask what color got to do with anything the answer is Chlorophyll. You've heard many times your Mom telling you to eat your veggies, peas and broccoli its good for you. Mom was right all alone greens not just good for you but will save your life. Lets see what's a big deal...
          Chlorophyll is the molecule that absorbs sunlight and uses its energy to synthesize carbohydrates from CO2 and water. This process is known as photosynthesis and is the basis for sustaining the life processes of all plants. Since animals and humans obtain their food supply by eating plants, photosynthesis can be said to be the source of our life also. Chlorophyll-is the green coloration in leaves. Now Hemoglobin ( blood is approx 75% hemoglobin) is the most essential substance that our body uses to build and transport red blood cells to obtain hemoglobin we need Chlorophyll which molecular structure is absolutely identical to hemoglobin except for the center atom. In hemoglobin this is iron, whereas in chlorophyll it is magnesium. This means that when ingested, chlorophyll actually helps to do the job of hemoglobin it helps to rebuild and replenish our red blood cells, boosting our energy and increasing our well being instantly. Eating/drinking your greens/chlorophyll will increase the quality and quantity of your red blood cells.
Chlorophyll has the power to regenerate our bodies at the molecular and cellular level and is known to help cleanse the body, fight infection, help heal wounds, and promote the health of the circulatory, digestive, immune, and detoxification systems. Chlorophyll consumption increases the number of red blood cells and, therefore, increase oxygen utilization by the body. It also reduces the binding of carcinogens to DNA in the liver and other organs. It also breaks down calcium oxalate stones for elimination, which are created by the body for the purpose of neutralizing and disposing of excess acid. In addition to helping to rebuild and replenish our red blood cells, chlorophyll, being highly alkaline, also gives the body the following benefits:
  • Anti Carcinogenic: Chlorophyll protects against a whole host of carcinogens found in fungus-laden foods such as nuts and grains, the toxins from cooked meats, and air-borne carcinogens (from pollution). It blocks the metabolism in the body of harmful chemicals known as procarcinogens that damage DNA. 
  • Antioxidant & Anti-inflammatory: containing high levels of the vitamins A, C and E, chlorophyll has strong antioxidant capacity and has also been found to help reduce inflammation.
  • Chelation of Heavy Metals: chlorophyll is one of the most important chelates in nature. It’s ability to bind to and remove toxic heavy metals such as mercury makes it an extremely powerful healer.
  • Antiseptic: while chlorophyll doesn’t actually have antiseptic properties of its own, it, quite remarkably, DOES have the ability to aid our body’s tissue in destroying germs. By strengthening tissue, it increases the disease resistance of cells and, at the same time, prevents the growth of bacteria!
  • Treats Bad Breath: This one is a real bonus and really works! Chlorophyll has a double-action remedy for bad breath. Firstly, as a deodoriser, it will eliminate odours in the mouth and throat, but secondly (and more importantly) it promotes a healthy digestive tract – which is the primary reason for bad breath.
  • Rapid Delivery of Magnesium: this has a highly alkalising effect on the body and helps to deliver much needed oxygen to cells and tissues.
  • Contains vitamin K, C, folic acid, iron, calcium, protein: which are all also essential in building and repairing red blood cells and boosting our immune system.