Friday, July 6, 2012

Lawn or garden care pesticides are - very dangerous poisons that kill insects, weeds and organisms. Many are known to cause cancer, birth defects and infertility and can also damage the brain and nervous system, lungs, kidney, liver, endocrine and immune systems. Even if you don't use it pesticides from your neighbor's lawn or garden can end up in your home contaminating furniture, carpets toys etc.They last much longer indoors since there's no light, sun, wind or rain to break them down or wash them away. Pesticides easily absorbed into body through the skin and by swallowing. Pesticides can cause short term (acute) effects rashes, burning of the eyes and throat, breathing problems and flu-likes symptoms headache, nausea, fatigue , muscle aches , they can aggravate or cause asthma, allergies or cause long term (chronic ) illnesses include infertility, birth defects, various cancers of breast prostate myeloma, kidney/bladder eye cancer and so on. Children get effected more by pesticides then adults because they skin surface for they size and they take more breaths per minute and they liver and immune system is not fully develop.

Safer alternatives to Toxic pesticides

Common Insecticides: Diazinon, Dursban, Kelthane, Lindane, Malathion, Orthene, Sevin
Safer alternatives: insecticidal soaps, diatomaceous earth, neem products

Common herbicides: Atrazine, 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPA< Roundup, Trichlopyr Trifluralin
Safer alternatives: Corn gluten, hand weeding, hot water vinegar, weed wackers, proper watering

Common fungicides: Benomyl, Captan, Daconil, Maneb, Mancozeb
Safe alternative Sulfur, baking soda, copper products cultural control


Thursday, July 5, 2012

Seed saving why it is important?
Without seeds there's no hope of survival. Seeds is reproductive material- a new life and genetic information stronger plants produce stronger new plants. If people focus on saving seeds and ecology the life on this planet would be happier and healthier. Plants are everything its gives life -produce life- and continues life....With a dangers of GMO (genetically modified organisms)we are loosing the most important thing which is seed heritage when Gmo plants cross pollinates with heirloom it unfortunately they changes them .

Here's tips how to save tomato seeds

Tomatoes

Lycopersicon lycopersicum
Almost all modern tomatoes can be safely grown without isolation and will not cross—'currant' tomatoes (such as Cherry Tomatoes), and 'potato-leafed' tomatoes (such as Brandywine) are possible exceptions and may cross other currant or potato-leaf varieties. Grow as many standard tomatoes as desired, but grow only one currant tomato or one potato-leaf tomato at a time to ensure purity (or cage them, or separate varieties by 500 feet). Currant and potato-leaf tomatoes will not usually cross with common tomato varieties.
It's best to not plant all a valuable variety's seeds in one season until you are sure it doesn't cross with any other varieties you grow.
Allow tomatoes to ripen thoroughly on their vines to at least the eating stage before harvesting them to collect their seeds. Upon harvesting, tomato seeds are best fermented in order to remove a germination-inhibiting gel which covers the seeds, and to kill diseases. In nature, fermentation of fallen ripe fruits removes this gel, and this process is imitated when preparing tomato seeds.
If fermenting tomato seeds seems too much trouble, they will still germinate if the slippery gel surrounding the seeds is carefully rubbed off while you're cleaning them. Seeds treated this way will germinate, but they will not have had the protection of the fermentation process killing disease organisms. If you noticed any problems with your plants (leaves spotting or dying, inexplicable wilting, etc.), the extra trouble of fermentation will be well worth the effort.
Dry your tomato seeds on a piece of glass or a shiny plate—the wet seeds will stick to paper and be difficult to remove without damaging them.
Tomato seeds will store safely for 4 or more years after being properly dried and stored.

How to Ferment Seeds

To prepare seeds for fermenting, simply squeeze or scoop the seeds—together with the pulp that surrounds them—into a jar with a little water (about half as much water as seeds and pulp). There is no need to include more pulp than naturally comes with the seeds. Store this seed/pulp mixture in a warm place (75 to 85º F) for 1½ to 5 days (depending on the seed type and whether conditions are warmer or cooler).
Fermentation will be evidenced by bubbling and/or by the formation of a white mold on the surface of the mixture. As soon as the bubbling or mold have been evident for a day or so, pour the mix into a bowl and clean with running water.
Watch closely, as seeds left fermenting too long (especially above 80º F or so) may germinate, ruining their chances for storage. Once the seeds start to 'imbibe' or swell due to taking on water, they will have begun their internal process of germination... by the time their tiny roots have begun to emerge, it is far too late to try and dry them for storage. Sprouted seeds can be planted immediately and grown out (depending on season), but they will die if they are dried out for storage once they have begun to germinate.
It's not required to ferment squash or eggplant seeds, though it increases their germination rates and kills some seed-borne diseases. In general, when temperatures are kept between 75 and 80º F or so, fermenting is safe and beneficial and will be safely completed before seeds begin the process of germination.

For  more info useful sites how to save your garden seeds  see http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html or http://howtosaveseeds.com/seedsavingdetails.php#tomatoes

Wednesday, July 4, 2012


Companion planting means putting plants together in the garden that like each other, or help each other out. Companion planting can have a real impact on the health and yield of your plants.

Organic gardeners strive to achieve a balance in their gardens so that they don't require chemicals for pest or disease control.

Companion planting can play a significant role
in assisting with pest control.
Some combinations work because of scents they use to repel insects,
others work because they attract good bugs.

Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables 












Vegetable
Really likes to be with…
Really dislikes to be with…

Asparagus
Basil, Tomato, Nasturtium, Parsley
Onion, Garlic, Potato

Beans
Carrot, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Marigold
Chives, Leek, Garlic

Broad Beans
Brassicas, Carrot, Celery, Corn, Lettuce, Potato
Fennel

Beets
Brassicas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage
Bean (pole)

Broccoli
Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Rosemary
Oregano, Strawberry

Brussel Sprouts
Potato, Thyme
Strawberry

Cabbage
Beetroot, Potato, Oregano, Sage
Strawberry, Tomato

Carrot
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Pea, Radish, Tomato
Chives, Dill, Parsnip, Radish

Cauliflower
Beans, Celery, Oregano
Nasturtium, Peas, Potato, Strawberry, Tomato

Celery
Cabbage, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Parsnip, Potato

Corn
Bean, Cucumber, Melon, Pea, Pumpkin, Potato, Radish
Tomato

Cucumber
Bean, Celery, Lettuce, Pea, Radish
Cauliflower, Potato, Basil

Eggplant
Bean, Capsicum, Potato, Spinach

Leek
Carrot, Celery, Strawberry

Lettuce
Carrots, Radishes, Strawberry
Beans, Beetroot, Parsley

Melon
Corn, Radish
Potato

Onion
Bean Sprout, Broccoli, Cabbage, Lettuce, Strawberry, Tomato
Bean, Pea

Pea
Beans, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish
Onion Family

Potato
Bean, Corn, Cabbage, Pea, Eggplant
Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash, Sunflower

Pumpkin
Corn
Potato

Spinach
Celery, Cauliflower, Eggplant

Tomato
Asparagus, Celery, Carrot, Parsley, Marigold
Corn, Fennel, Potato

Zucchini
Nasturtium