Lawn or garden care pesticides are - very dangerous poisons that kill insects, weeds and organisms. Many are known to cause cancer, birth defects and infertility and can also damage the brain and nervous system, lungs, kidney, liver, endocrine and immune systems. Even if you don't use it pesticides from your neighbor's lawn or garden can end up in your home contaminating furniture, carpets toys etc.They last much longer indoors since there's no light, sun, wind or rain to break them down or wash them away. Pesticides easily absorbed into body through the skin and by swallowing. Pesticides can cause short term (acute) effects rashes, burning of the eyes and throat, breathing problems and flu-likes symptoms headache, nausea, fatigue , muscle aches , they can aggravate or cause asthma, allergies or cause long term (chronic ) illnesses include infertility, birth defects, various cancers of breast prostate myeloma, kidney/bladder eye cancer and so on. Children get effected more by pesticides then adults because they skin surface for they size and they take more breaths per minute and they liver and immune system is not fully develop.

Safer alternatives to Toxic pesticides

Common Insecticides: Diazinon, Dursban, Kelthane, Lindane, Malathion, Orthene, Sevin
Safer alternatives: insecticidal soaps, diatomaceous earth, neem products

Common herbicides: Atrazine, 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPA< Roundup, Trichlopyr Trifluralin
Safer alternatives: Corn gluten, hand weeding, hot water vinegar, weed wackers, proper watering

Common fungicides: Benomyl, Captan, Daconil, Maneb, Mancozeb
Safe alternative Sulfur, baking soda, copper products cultural control

Seed saving why it is important?
Without seeds there's no hope of survival. Seeds is reproductive material- a new life and genetic information stronger plants produce stronger new plants. If people focus on saving seeds and ecology the life on this planet would be happier and healthier. Plants are everything its gives life -produce life- and continues life....With a dangers of GMO (genetically modified organisms)we are loosing the most important thing which is seed heritage when Gmo plants cross pollinates with heirloom it unfortunately they changes them .

Here's tips how to save tomato seeds

Tomatoes

Lycopersicon lycopersicum

Almost all modern tomatoes can be safely grown without isolation and will not cross—'currant' tomatoes (such as Cherry Tomatoes), and 'potato-leafed' tomatoes (such as Brandywine) are possible exceptions and may cross other currant or potato-leaf varieties. Grow as many standard tomatoes as desired, but grow only one currant tomato or one potato-leaf tomato at a time to ensure purity (or cage them, or separate varieties by 500 feet). Currant and potato-leaf tomatoes will not usually cross with common tomato varieties.
It's best to not plant all a valuable variety's seeds in one season until you are sure it doesn't cross with any other varieties you grow.
Allow tomatoes to ripen thoroughly on their vines to at least the eating stage before harvesting them to collect their seeds. Upon harvesting, tomato seeds are best fermented in order to remove a germination-inhibiting gel which covers the seeds, and to kill diseases. In nature, fermentation of fallen ripe fruits removes this gel, and this process is imitated when preparing tomato seeds.
If fermenting tomato seeds seems too much trouble, they will still germinate if the slippery gel surrounding the seeds is carefully rubbed off while you're cleaning them. Seeds treated this way will germinate, but they will not have had the protection of the fermentation process killing disease organisms. If you noticed any problems with your plants (leaves spotting or dying, inexplicable wilting, etc.), the extra trouble of fermentation will be well worth the effort.
Dry your tomato seeds on a piece of glass or a shiny plate—the wet seeds will stick to paper and be difficult to remove without damaging them.
Tomato seeds will store safely for 4 or more years after being properly dried and stored.

How to Ferment Seeds

To prepare seeds for fermenting, simply squeeze or scoop the seeds—together with the pulp that surrounds them—into a jar with a little water (about half as much water as seeds and pulp). There is no need to include more pulp than naturally comes with the seeds. Store this seed/pulp mixture in a warm place (75 to 85º F) for 1½ to 5 days (depending on the seed type and whether conditions are warmer or cooler).
Fermentation will be evidenced by bubbling and/or by the formation of a white mold on the surface of the mixture. As soon as the bubbling or mold have been evident for a day or so, pour the mix into a bowl and clean with running water.
Watch closely, as seeds left fermenting too long (especially above 80º F or so) may germinate, ruining their chances for storage. Once the seeds start to 'imbibe' or swell due to taking on water, they will have begun their internal process of germination... by the time their tiny roots have begun to emerge, it is far too late to try and dry them for storage. Sprouted seeds can be planted immediately and grown out (depending on season), but they will die if they are dried out for storage once they have begun to germinate.
It's not required to ferment squash or eggplant seeds, though it increases their germination rates and kills some seed-borne diseases. In general, when temperatures are kept between 75 and 80º F or so, fermenting is safe and beneficial and will be safely completed before seeds begin the process of germination.

For  more info useful sites how to save your garden seeds  see http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html or http://howtosaveseeds.com/seedsavingdetails.php#tomatoes

Companion planting means putting plants together in the garden that like each other, or help each other out. Companion planting can have a real impact on the health and yield of your plants.

Organic gardeners strive to achieve a balance in their gardens so that they don't require chemicals for pest or disease control.

Companion planting can play a significant role
in assisting with pest control.

Some combinations work because of scents they use to repel insects,
others work because they attract good bugs.

Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables 

			Vegetable Really likes to be with… Really dislikes to be with… Asparagus Basil, Tomato, Nasturtium, Parsley Onion, Garlic, Potato Beans Carrot, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Marigold Chives, Leek, Garlic Broad Beans Brassicas, Carrot, Celery, Corn, Lettuce, Potato Fennel Beets Brassicas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage Bean (pole) Broccoli Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Rosemary Oregano, Strawberry Brussel Sprouts Potato, Thyme Strawberry Cabbage Beetroot, Potato, Oregano, Sage Strawberry, Tomato Carrot Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Pea, Radish, Tomato Chives, Dill, Parsnip, Radish Cauliflower Beans, Celery, Oregano Nasturtium, Peas, Potato, Strawberry, Tomato Celery Cabbage, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato Parsnip, Potato Corn Bean, Cucumber, Melon, Pea, Pumpkin, Potato, Radish Tomato Cucumber Bean, Celery, Lettuce, Pea, Radish Cauliflower, Potato, Basil Eggplant Bean, Capsicum, Potato, Spinach Leek Carrot, Celery, Strawberry Lettuce Carrots, Radishes, Strawberry Beans, Beetroot, Parsley Melon Corn, Radish Potato Onion Bean Sprout, Broccoli, Cabbage, Lettuce, Strawberry, Tomato Bean, Pea Pea Beans, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Radish Onion Family Potato Bean, Corn, Cabbage, Pea, Eggplant Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash, Sunflower Pumpkin Corn Potato Spinach Celery, Cauliflower, Eggplant Tomato Asparagus, Celery, Carrot, Parsley, Marigold Corn, Fennel, Potato Zucchini Nasturtium

Garden zones. Basic planting vegetable schedule

When to Plant Vegetable Seeds. Zone 6a Philadelphia, PA

Crop	Days to Maturity	Spring Planting Dates	Fall Planting Dates	Seed/Plants 100 ft.	Distance Between Rows	Distance Between Plants	Depth to Plant
Asparagus	2nd season	Apr 5 - 25		50 roots	3 to 5 ft.	1½ to 2 ft.	6 in.
Bean, bush	50-60	Apr 25 - May 30	July 25-Aug 5	½ lb.	3 ft.	2 to 4 in.	1-1½ in.
Bean, pole	65-75	May 10 - 20		½ lb.	3 ft.	6 to 12 in.	1-1½ in.
Bean, lima	65-75	May 10 -25		1 lb.	2 to 2½ ft.	3 to 4 in.	1-1½ in.
Beet	55-65	Apr 1 - 15	Aug 1 - Sept 25	1 oz.	2 to 2½ ft.	2 in.	1 in.
Broccoli	60-80	Mar 25 - Apr 5	Sept. 25 - 30	100 plants	2½ ft.	14 to 18 in.	-
Cabbage	65-80	Apr 1 - 20	Sept 20 -30	100 plants	2½ ft.	12 in.	-
Cantaloupe	80-90	May 10 - 20		1 oz.	4 to 6 ft.	3½ to 4 ft.	1½ in
Carrot	70-80	Mar 25 - Apr 10	Sept 20 -30	½ oz.	2 ft.	2 to 3 in.	½ in.
Cauliflower	55-60	Apr 1 - 20	Sept 20 - 30	100 plants	3 ft.	12 to 18 in.	-
Collard	55-70	Mar 20 - Apr 10		½ oz.	2½ ft.	8 to 16 in.	½ in.
Corn	80-100	May 1 - July 20		¼ lb.	3 to 3½ ft.	12 to 18 in.	2 in.
Cucumber	60-65	May 10 - 30		1 oz.	3½ to 5 ft.	3 to 4 ft.	1½ in.
Eggplant	75-90	May 15 - 25		50 plants	3 ft.	2½ to 3 ft.	-
Kale	50-70	Mar 25 - Apr 5		½ oz.	3 ft.	10 in.	½ in.
Kohlrabi	50-70	Apr 1 - 15	Sept 20 - 25	½ oz.	3 ft.	10 in.	½ in.
Lettuce	60-85	Apr 1 - May 15	Sept 1 - 15	½ oz.	2 to 2½ ft.	10 to 12 in.	½ in.
Mustard	40-50	Mar 25 - May 1	Aug 1 - 30	½ oz.	2 ft.	1 in.	½ in.
Okra	55-60	May 10 - 25		1 oz.	3 to 3½ ft.	6 in.	1 in.
Onion (mature)	100-120	Mar 25 - Apr 15	Sept. 1-Dec. 31	300 plants or ½ gal. sets	1 to 2 ft.	3 to 4 in.	¾ in.
Peas, garden	60-80	Mar 25 - Apr 10		1 lb.	2½ ft.	1 in.	1½-2 in.
Peas, southern	60-70	May 1 - 15	-	½ lb.	3 ft.	4 to 6 in.	1½-2 in.
Pepper	65-80	May 15 - 30	-	50 plants	2½ ft.	1½ to 2 ft.	-
Potato, Irish	70-90	Apr 1 - 15		1 peck	2½ to 3 ft.	10 to 14 in.	5 in.
Potato, sweet	90-150	May 15-June 5	-	100 plants	3½ ft.	12 in.	-
Radish	25-30	Mar 25 - May 1	Aug 1- 20	1 oz.	1½ ft.	1 in.	½ in.
Spinach	40-45	Apr 1 - 20	Aug 10 - Sept 20	1 oz.	1½ to 2 ft.	1 to 2 in.	¾ in.
Squash, bush	50-55	May 15 - 30		1 oz.	3 to 4 ft.	2 ft.	1½-2 in.
squash, winter	85-90	May 15 - 30	-	½ oz.	5 ft.	3 ft.	1½-2 in.
Tomato	70-85	May 15 - 30		50 plants	3 to 4 ft.	2½ to 3 ft.	-
Turnip	45-65	Mar 25 - May 1	Aug 5 - Sept 20	½ oz.	1 to 2 ft.	1 to 2 in.	½ in.
Watermelon	80-90	May 10 - 20		1 oz.	10 ft.	8 to 10 ft.	1½ in.

For other states use USDA zone guide http://www.garden.org/zipzone/

Going green

Going green & Eating greens will save your life!

It's a fact! What is a big deal?- you ask what color got to do with anything the answer is Chlorophyll. You've heard many times your Mom telling you to eat your veggies, peas and broccoli its good for you. Mom was right all alone greens not just good for you but will save your life. Lets see what's a big deal...
          Chlorophyll is the molecule that absorbs sunlight and uses its energy to synthesize carbohydrates from CO₂ and water. This process is known as photosynthesis and is the basis for sustaining the life processes of all plants. Since animals and humans obtain their food supply by eating plants, photosynthesis can be said to be the source of our life also. Chlorophyll-is the green coloration in leaves. Now Hemoglobin ( blood is approx 75% hemoglobin) is the most essential substance that our body uses to build and transport red blood cells to obtain hemoglobin we need Chlorophyll which molecular structure is absolutely identical to hemoglobin except for the center atom. In hemoglobin this is iron, whereas in chlorophyll it is magnesium. This means that when ingested, chlorophyll actually helps to do the job of hemoglobin it helps to rebuild and replenish our red blood cells, boosting our energy and increasing our well being instantly. Eating/drinking your greens/chlorophyll will increase the quality and quantity of your red blood cells.
Chlorophyll has the power to regenerate our bodies at the molecular and cellular level and is known to help cleanse the body, fight infection, help heal wounds, and promote the health of the circulatory, digestive, immune, and detoxification systems. Chlorophyll consumption increases the number of red blood cells and, therefore, increase oxygen utilization by the body. It also reduces the binding of carcinogens to DNA in the liver and other organs. It also breaks down calcium oxalate stones for elimination, which are created by the body for the purpose of neutralizing and disposing of excess acid. In addition to helping to rebuild and replenish our red blood cells, chlorophyll, being highly alkaline, also gives the body the following benefits:

• Anti Carcinogenic: Chlorophyll protects against a whole host of carcinogens found in fungus-laden foods such as nuts and grains, the toxins from cooked meats, and air-borne carcinogens (from pollution). It blocks the metabolism in the body of harmful chemicals known as procarcinogens that damage DNA. 
• Antioxidant & Anti-inflammatory: containing high levels of the vitamins A, C and E, chlorophyll has strong antioxidant capacity and has also been found to help reduce inflammation.
• Chelation of Heavy Metals: chlorophyll is one of the most important chelates in nature. It’s ability to bind to and remove toxic heavy metals such as mercury makes it an extremely powerful healer.
• Antiseptic: while chlorophyll doesn’t actually have antiseptic properties of its own, it, quite remarkably, DOES have the ability to aid our body’s tissue in destroying germs. By strengthening tissue, it increases the disease resistance of cells and, at the same time, prevents the growth of bacteria!
• Treats Bad Breath: This one is a real bonus and really works! Chlorophyll has a double-action remedy for bad breath. Firstly, as a deodoriser, it will eliminate odours in the mouth and throat, but secondly (and more importantly) it promotes a healthy digestive tract – which is the primary reason for bad breath.
• Rapid Delivery of Magnesium: this has a highly alkalising effect on the body and helps to deliver much needed oxygen to cells and tissues.
• Contains vitamin K, C, folic acid, iron, calcium, protein: which are all also essential in building and repairing red blood cells and boosting our immune system.

                                   Good Garden Bugs vs Bad Bugs
                                                        Top 10 Garden Friends

    1.    Bees – Bumble bees, honey bees  others.  They important for pollination.
    2.    Wasps - They eat aphids, mites, whiteflies, caterpillar eggs, moth larvae, beetles, corn earwigs.
    3.    Praying Mantis – these unusual looking bugs are great for controlling aphids.
    4.    Ladybugs – These “ladies” of the garden control aphids, mealy bugs and mites.
    5.    Beetles – particularly ground beetles, are fantastic for eating caterpillars, cut worms and slugs.
    6.    Spiders – They are extremely beneficial for eating a wide variety of pests.
    7.    Green Lacewings – Consume aphids, mites and a variety of pest eggs.
    8.    Earthworms – provide nutrients, aerating the soil and controlling  PH
    9.    Butterflies -pollinators
   10.   Goldenrod soldier beetle -Great pollinators

THE ENEMY

Aphid, Woolly Aphids
Cucumber beetles
Chinese stink bugs /squash bugs 
Big Bud Mite
Large Cabbage
White Caterpilar    
Small Cabbage

Gooseberry Sawfly
Aquilegia Sawfly
Bullfinch   
Cockchafer Grub    
Carrot Fly Grub
Leatherjacket    
Leaf Beetle    
Midge Larva    
Moth Larvae
Flatworm         
Red Lily Beetle    
Pea Beetle     Rabbit    
Slug     Snail
Scale Insect
Wireworm    
Wood-pigeon    
Vine Weevil

I use this websites to identify bugs and plants http://davesgarden.com/
http://doctorgreenfingers.zymichost.com/pests.html

Here's a organic natural spray from this website (slightly changed by me because I got small children) http://www.heirloom-organics.com/guide/naturalpesticide.html
                                             
                                                      Garlic Fire Spray
Garlic fire spray is the stuff of legend. There are many recipes, but they consist of some or all of the following: garlic, chilli peppers, soap, vegetable or(neem)oil, and water.

• 2-3 garlic bulbs (about 6-10 cloves per bulb)
• 6 large or 12 smaller hot chilli peppers (any variety will do, or if unavailable try 1-2 tablespoon hot chilli powder)
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 3 squirts of liquid vegetable soup (approximately 1 dessertspoonful)
• 7 cups water. (Use about 2-3 cups in the blender, and top up with the rest later)

Put the whole lot into a blender and blend well, then strain through muslin, a coffee filter.. Pour what you need into a spray bottle for use and keep the rest in jars with lids on in a cupboard or on a shelf somewhere, well labeled.

Experiment with it if necessary and check for results or any damage to young plants. If it fixes the problem and your plants are happy, you've got the perfect mix, but if there's still a few biggie pests, , then lower the water dilution rate or change the ingredient quantities slightly.

Lovely garlicky, pongy stuff, but the smell dissipates quickly once it's been sprayed around. This garlic fire mixture needs to be re-sprayed frequently, such as after rain and dew. It's best to spray every few days until there's no sign of pests, then about every week to 10 days for any eggs or larvae that may have hatched out.

Uses for this natural garden pest control are unlimited. Because it has oil and soap in it, it sticks to plants as well as suffocating pests such as scale and mealy bug. It will kill ants, aphids, caterpillars, grubs, bugs and just about anything small. SO BE VERY SELECTIVE — MIND THE LADYBUGS, LACEWINGS, BEES AND OTHER BENEFICIAL FRIENDS.